Harajuku** itself is Tokyo’s youth culture capital, focused on the Takeshita Dori (east from the station), a narrow street lined with quirky shops and often even quirkier fashions.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, whose 243 metre high twin towers each have free observatories on the 45th floors. The southern tower is said to have slightly more interesting views.

4. Shimo-Kitazawa A maze of narrow streets, that look completely unchanged from the 50’s or 60’s. No ugly skyscrapers here.