Sublime

TUNA CARPACCIO Chill a ten-inch plate. Slice raw Bluefin tuna very thinly, then pound paper-thin under a layer of plastic wrap, and layer plate with slices. Keep chilled. Slice fennel bulb paper-thin, and mix with grapefruit supremes and salt. Finely grate ginger. Sprinkle ginger on tuna slices, then heap fennel and grapefruit in the center of the

Stockpots, saucepans, thick-bottomed saute pans are

PARMESAN FRICO APPETIZERS Mix coarsely grated Parmesan and flour, then season with red pepper flakes and black pepper. Spoon cheese in a medium-hot nonstick pan, flatten gently into a thin disk, and cook until golden on both sides. Drape still-hot frico over an inverted shot glass or teacup and let cool and harden into a Parmesan cup. Fill with a b

have a theory that the first thirty seconds in a restaurant tell you everything you need to know. I was waiting for a train in the Philadelphia Amtrak station and I was starving, so I went into a deli. The employee at the door pretended he didn’t see me and looked away. The guy at the sandwich counter walked into the back and didn’t reappear.

It was Newman’s insistent desire to market the dressing that kept Hotch in motion. Scarcely a day passed but what Paul was calling from some unlikely place to discuss a newly discovered source for the perfect olive oil, the perfect red wine vinegar, the perfect mustard, and so on, which he constantly sought. He phoned Hotch from racetracks, in betw