Sublime

If Madame Girand and her husband have the stamina to keep at it for the next thirty or forty years, La Fontaine might join those other restaurants, large and small, that have become institutions. You find them all over France, places like Chez l’Ami Louis in Paris or the Auberge in La Môle. They are not always the most fashionable of restaurants, n

Food is both fuel and medicine, but this doesn’t mean we have to strip it bare of its magic and reframe it as a power source for some robot-like, maximally efficient human body. Yes, the reality is that food is a basic, physical human need. It is fuel, in a sense, and by extension, we are machines that need fuelling. But we’re also thoughtful aesth

Peter Farb and George Armelagos in Consuming Passions

most of the serious cooks we know use supermarkets only to stock up on basic commodities. They buy their meat, bread, oil, wine, and produce from small specialist shops, as their mothers used to do. And if they live in or near Avignon, they shop at Les Halles, one of the best food markets one could hope to find, in France or anywhere else. It’s on